The feeling of punch-drunk absurdity that sometimes overwhelms my senses at the Tales of the Cocktail convention came on most strongly this year when I interviewed the dignified Count Branca, owner of Fernet Branca, and actor Ted Lange, the "Love Boat" star and author of one of television's most famous depictions of a bartender, on the same morning. It was a dizzying trip from high to low culture. Both men couldn't have been nicer, and Lange, to my surprise, knew a fair share about the bartending art. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find out what the man who was Isaac liked to drinks. Having been flown in by Disaronno, he was duty bound to declare the liquor he favorite tipple.

Here is my account of the two meetings in the Times:

Fernet Goes on Tap in San Francisco

San Francisco's mania for Fernet Branca has just been knocked up a notch. 

Two bars—Broken Record and Bullitt—have just started serving the bitter Italian digestivo on tap. (You can also get Maker's Mark on tap at Bullitt). 

The craze for drinking shots of Fernet—known as "The Bartender's Handshake"—began in San Francisco, but is now a nationwide phenomenon. Guess the Bay area just found a way to make the drink theirs all over again. I give it two months before some New York bar starts doing the same.

Fernet Branca Love on Rise in New York

The other day I went to my local Brooklyn liquor store for a bottle of Fernet Branca. I needed it for research; I was testing some drinks that were to be included with a coming article of mine. I don't typically buy Fernet for pleasure. Don't get me wrong. I've got nothing against it; I love many an Italian amaro. But I appreciate Fernet more than I actually enjoy it.

Anyway, when I was at the checkout, the cashier mentioned how they had had trouble lately keeping Fernet in stock. At one point they had run out and had to quickly order a new and larger shipment. This surprised me. Fernet's always been an acquired taste, and San Francisco acquired it long, long ago. But New York's never been know as a Fernet town to my knowledge. I consulted with Damon Boelte, the bar manager down at Prime Meats. Damon likes Fernet, both the regular and the Menta, and I know that he showcases a couple Fernet based drinks at his joint. I asked if he shopped at the liquor store in question. He affirmed he did, and probably contributed to its depletion of stock. But, I wondered, is that all? Or is there more to the story?

I contacted Laura Baddish at the Baddish Group, which reps Fernet Branca in the U.S. to see if sales of the bitter had spiked in New York. Eureka! Indeed they had. Baddish said sales of Fernet Branca had increased in the New York metro area by more than 50% since January 2009. That's some climb. She said the increase is due to the number of outlets buying the product (on and off premise), and the amount being sold by those who buy is increasing as well.

It could very well be that a lot of overzealous, inventive, amaro-loving bartenders are mainly responsible for the uptick in Fernet sales. But I suspect it's a little more than that. As far as I can see, people seem to like the Fernet-based drinks going around. And once you develop a taste, you may ask for it at another place, which is then forced to carry Fernet; or you just bring the Fernet home and drink it there. But 50% is 50%. Something's going on.

So, as a Fernet-loving city, does this means we're all sophisticated and stuff?