A Visit to the Counting Room: Brooklyn Gets the Cure

The Counting Room, a new restaurant and bar, opened in April on Berry Street in Williamsburg. I spent my time during a recent visit in the downstairs space, where there's a long bar, brick walls and plenty of space.

I have become enthused about the prospects of the joint when I learned the man behind the bar was Maks Pazuniak, whose amazing work with cocktails I first encountered last summer at Cure, a bar in New Orleans which, for my money, ranks as one of the best in the nation. I actually didn't put two and two together until I was home. (When I was introduced, I heard "Max," not Maks.) But I knew something was up when I tasted the deeply complex Salt & Ash, which must be one of the best Mezcal-Tequila cocktails in town.

The smoky drink is made of Chichicapa Mezcal, Grapefruit-infused El Jimador Blanco Tequila, Lapsang Sweet Vermouth, Maraschino, Agave, Angostura, Orange Bitters. The emphasis on cleverly deployed bitter ingredients is reminiscent of the work at Cure. Should have drunk more after I tried that one. But I'll be back. The full cocktail menu is below. Pazuniak said seven of the cocktail are his own creations, including the Italian Heirloom and the Arbitrary Nature of Times. Salt & Ash is a variation of a cocktail Pazuniak created at Cure called the Improved Scotch Sling.

French Compromise
Orange-infused Beefeater Gin, Lemon, Prosecco

A Lazy Spring
Beefeater Gin, Rosemary-infused Bianco Vermouth, Lemon, Honey, Black Peppercorn

Karmic Fate
El Jimador Blanco Tequila, Plymouth Sloe Gin, Lemon, Egg White

Vanishing Sun

Clement Rhum Agricole, Maraschino, Grapefruit, Lime, Honey, Mint, Angostura Bitters, Regan's Orange Bitters

Empire Sour
Laird's Applejack, Lemon, Egg White, Angostura, Carpano Antica Formula

Salt & Ash
Chichicapa Mezcal, Grapefruit-infused El Jimador Blanco Tequila, Lapsang Sweet Vermouth, Maraschino, Agave, Angostura, Orange Bitters

No. 49
Plymouth Gin, Yellow Chartreuse V.E.P.

Red Light Companion
Bol's Genever, Campari, Dolin Dry Vermouth

Sherry, Jerez, Xeres
Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso, Mint

The Arbitrary Nature of Time
Wild Turkey Rye 101, Campari, Cherry Heering, Mole Bitters, Orange Bitters

Italian Heirloom
Cynar, Laphroaig 10 yr , Dewars, Salt