I had a nice surprise last night as I made my way through a bottle of Chenin Blanc from the Chinon region of the Loire Valley, made by Catherine and Pierre Breton. I had tasted the Bretons' variety of Cabernet Francs from Bourgueil at the Polaner tasting. It was a rare opportunity to experience the wide range of expression that often undervalued grape is capable of.
They had not had the Chinon at the tasting, so I didn't know what to expect. Some makers that have a token white in their line-up make it their last priority. Not the Bretons. It was pleasant and full as I opened it, a good Chenin Blanc. But I came to realize that it was too cold. As it warmed to the room, it came into its own, mellow and generous-bodied, tasting of lemon, melon and bread, with just an slivery edge of spice. There was great depth and pleasure in it. I finished the bottle, it was so enjoyable and interesting.
The wine is organic and biodynamic, for those who care about such things. I think I paid $20 for it. Maybe less. Give it a try if you see it.