Joseph Drouhin Goes Organic

Twenty years after Philippe Drouhin first began introducing organic practices to his Burgundy vineyards, the producer has been awarded organic certification for all grapes grown within its vineyards beginning with the 2009 vintage. 

The Drouhin vineyards have actually been organic for years, but official regulations require a three-year “conversion” period during which the rules of organic production are applied and verified in the vineyards. The certification process began in August 2006. Philippe Drouhin, one of the four siblings running the winery, and the one in charge of the company‘s 73-hectare estate, including 38 hectares of Chablis, began introducing organic practices back in 1990, shortly after joining the family firm. So consumers won't notice a sudden change in the taste of the wines. Only difference is, it's official now.

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Good Chablis, No Waiting

How much was I enjoying the tasting of Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis at Bar Boloud this past Monday? So much I didn't take any pictures, though I had my camera on hand.

This was my kind of tasting. Not a mad house, with hundreds of bottles and hundreds of people. Nine bottles, all from one maker, and a handle to tasters. Plus a bonafied scion from the family, young and tall Laurent Drouhin, on hand to chat.

The Chablis was magnificent, which was gratifying for Laurent to here, since he comlained that Drouhin is so well-known for the Beaune holding, that people either forget about their Chablis, or think its made for them by a negotiant using grapes culled from here and there. He said he thought part of this confusion was due to the labels on all the Drouhin wines being so similar. So, change the Chablis label!

The wines on hand were from three vintages:

*2006 vintage Chablis; Chablis Domaine de Vaudon; Chablis 1e Cru;
Chablis-Montmains 1e Cru
*2005 vintage Chablis-Séchers 1e Cru; Chablis-Les Clos Grand Cru;
Chablis-Vaudésir Grand Cru
*2004 vintage Chablis-Les Clos Grand Cru; Chablis-Vaudésir Grand Cru

The wines got better as we went back in time. The 2006 were very taut and streamlined, with the grapefruit-like fruit disappearing with each successful wine. The 2005 were noticeably fuller and riper, more open, due to a warmer vintage that year (Laurent told me). As for the 2004s, they were fantastic, with great depth, great, fine-boned structure and the onset of yeasty, petrol characteristics. As a friend there said, "This is what you're looking for." Both the Vaudésirs were particularly good.