Mad Men and Drinking, Season Four, Episode 12: Cold Turkey

Don Draper didn't give up booze in "Blowing Smoke," the penultimate episode of "Mad Men"'s fourth season. He gave up cigarettes. At least on paper. Stymied by SCDP's inability to get a meeting with any new client since losing Lucky Strike, he came out against Big Tobacco with a full-page ad in the New York Times, announcing that, since smoking was bad and bad for you, the firm would no longer be taking on tobacco clients.

It was a bold move, one that pissed off his partners since he (naturally) didn't consult them; a cynical move, since Draper readily admitted he placed the ad to "change the conversation" about the firm and generate new business, not wave the flag of his ideals; and, ultimately, a somewhat sincere and heartfelt gesture. Lucky Strike had been bad for SCDP. It caused them to act badly (i.e., fire Sal; indulge the odious Lee Garner, Jr.) They have depended on it too much. They were addicted to its money. Now they'll have to really work.

Draper took a number of belts of the brown stuff during the episode. In his office and at the grubby apartment of erstwhile Boho mistress, now heroine addict, Midge. Though he kept his head when he should. There was a menu on the table of the black, tomb-like restaurant when he met with Heinz's "beans, vinegars and sauces" man, but no drinks on the table. Pete, who doesn't drink much anymore, took some painkiller at home after learning he had to, as a partner, pony up fifty grand as collateral for the bank. I do not, however, recognize the squat little bottle of whiskey Pete keeps on his bar in his apartment.

Old New York restaurant call-out of the week: La Caravelle. One of the great old French places in Manhattan. It existed on W. 55th from 1961 to 2004. We didn't see it, but Don and Faye were planning to go there.

Julie Reiner's Lani Kai Set to Open Oct. 12; Menu Revealed

Julie Reiner's new Hawaiian-themed bar, Lani Kai—arguably the most anticipated cocktail joint arrival of New York's fall season—will open to the public on Tuesday, Oct. 12.

The drink menu—much of which was concocted by Reiner and Lani Kai's head bartender Joe Swifta (a transplant from Reiner's Flatiron Lounge)—is divided into the headings Spice & Tropical Tea (you'll find either tea or spice, or both, in every drink); Another Day in Paradise (I assume this has something to do with the effect these drinks will have on you); Boozy and Stirred (no juice in these); Liquid Luau (large libations intended for large parties); and Old School (Ti Punch, Queen's Park Swizzle, Mai Tai and Knickerbocker Royale). Most use a rum base, but there are also drinks founded on Bourbon, Mezcal, Rye, Tequila, Scotch, Gin, and Cachaca. Among the musical acts invoked by the cocktails are the Eagles (the Hotel California and Witchy Woman) and The Beatles (8 Days a Week).

A Beer At...Abilene

My latest "A Beer At..." column from Eater. A place in my neighborhood:

A Beer At...Abilene

Abilene is perfectly positioned to absorb tired Brooklyn commuters as they pour out of the F train's Carroll Street station at 6 PM and head down Court Street to their homes inside the brownstones of Carroll Gardens. Many pass it by, but always with a thirsty glance in the bar's direction. Others dart in and order a Maker's on the rocks, a Jack and Coke or a draft.

Mad Men and Drinking, Season Four, Episode 11: "This Is One"

More stress for Don Draper, more reasons to reach for the bottle.

Last week, Draper was scared the Feds might uncover his secret identity. That blew over. But now he's learned that Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce's biggest client, Lucky Strike, has flown the coop, leading to a full-on crisis in the office and in the advertising world rumor mills. Clients are running scared, and rival agencies are looking to poach talent. Hello, Canadian Club!

But Don's still keeping a lip on his consumption, even if he asks for help from two handy women—girlfriend Faye Miller, and new secretary, Megan, who's looking a bit "All About Eve"-ish in this episode. "I need a favor," Don tells Megan, as he pours a drink. "Don't let me overdo it." What's overdoing it?, asks Megan. "Three," answers Don, succinctly. "This is one." He ends up the day "one over."

Also noticed that Peggy keeps a bottle of Wild Turkey in her office. She's her own woman.

Oh! And this: on the black board in the SCDP conference room, listed as a "likely" new client, Four Roses Bourbon!

The Ice Is the Glass

The latest trend in ice? It's not in the glass. It is the glass.

I previously posted about chef Grant Achatz's experiment with injecting the ingredients of on Old Fashioned into a hollow, egg-shaped piece of ice. Not Albert Trummel of Apotheke, another fantastique of the drink world, has introduced the Miracle on Doyers Street as part of his new and expensive (every drink if $65) "Reserve Cocktail List."

The description: "Chilled Limited Edition Belvedere Intense Vodka, Taami Berry Power (Miracle Fruit), Served in a Hand-Carved Ice Block With a Selection of Sweet & Savory Fruits."

But how do you pick it up? Do they give you gloves?

Most of the other Reserve Cocktails, by the way, involve Krug Champagne. Just so you feel you're getting your money's worth.

Forty Four, the Complete Menu, Punch and All

Now that the Royalton's new bar program is officially open for business, I feel at liberty to unveil the entire cocktail menu, designed by Cocktail Collection pictured above. I had the opportunity to preview some of the drinks last week at a time when all six members were in attendance. I can speak well of the Maiden's Prayer, Champagne Cobbler, Stone Place, Hocus Pocus and very well of Vieux Carre (made not too sweet, as is often the case), Other Word and the Martha Washington Punch, which is beautifully served up in a crystal bowl and heavy glasses, which fresh slices of citrus and freshly grated nutmeg. I put the authors of the various drinks (those I could remember) in parentheses. 

There will also be a barrel program, in which certain spirits will be aged in particular barrels and then later used to mix into proprietary cocktails.

One amusing note: One of Misty Kalkofen's contributions, the Pharoah Cooler, was on the menu for only the briefest time. Forty Four gets all its fruit and juices from a local organic supplier. Soon after the Cooler went on the menu, the bar was informed that Watermelon was no longer in season. So the Cooler's brief reign was over. She will soon add a different drink.

Here's the menu:

The Key to the Appetite Unlocks American Market

I wrote a small item for the October issue of Wine Enthusiast about Bonal Gentiane Quina, another great find from Eric Seed, and a wonderful aperitif (if not quite as wonderful as that other recent Seed aperitif import, Cocchi Americano):

Minnesota-based liquor importer Haus Alpenz's Eric Seed is a master at sleuthing out obscure but great elixirs and bringing them to the attention of the American public. He's the man's who recently improved the U.S.'s vermouth lot ten-fold by shipping in the Dolin line. His latest find in Bonal Gentiane Quina ($25), an French aperitif wine that has been made since 1865. It's treasured overseas, but disappeared from these shores around 1940. Now it's back. A Mistrelle base infused with gentian, cinchona and herbs found in the Grand Chartreuse mountains, Bonal has a dry, bitter, bracing bite that effortlessly unlocks the appetite. Hence it's longtime nickname, "ouvre l'appetit" ("the key to the appetite") and the presence of a long skeleton key on the distinctive yellow label. As with more classic aperitifs—including Haus Alpenz's other excellent recent import, Cocchi Americano, from Italy—it's best appreciated straight, on the rocks or with a twist. Doubtless, that won't dissuade bartenders from tinkering with Bonal. But there's so much complexity in this quaff that it hardly needs added guests to make the party more interesting. 

—Robert Simonson