Bar Innovations Continue to Confuse Regulators

The nation's government liquor authorities, still mired in a swamp of obsolete, Prohibition-era regulations, continue to bedevil, and be bedeviled by, the lightning pace of the innovations in the cocktail community. Seems every six months or so you read about some benighted health inspector wandering into a high end cocktail lounge and being shocked that drinks are being made with egg whites, or that bartenders are infusing spirits with various herbs and spices and fruits. They shut the programs down, forcing the bar owners to wage expensive and time-consuming campaigns to reinstate what are essentially safe and sensible practices.

Last week, it happened again, and the new East Village bar Gin Palace was the victim. The bar, which focuses on gin drinks, trumpeted its draft cocktail program in the press. It would serve Gin & Tonics and Ramos Gin Fizzes on tap. To the drink world, this was not new news. Draft cocktails have been on offer at saloons on both coasts for more than a year now, following in the footsteps of the draft wine trend. In fact, Gin Palace owner Ravi DeRossi has actually featured draft drinks at two of his previous bars. But it was Gin Palace that set the authorities off, mainly because it received so much pre-opening ink.

So now Gin Palace has to argue its case before a hearing. If the bar succeeds, as it should, a lot of other bars with draft programs should be grateful. Here's the item I wrote for the Times' Diner's Journal:

Ravi DeRossi to Open Gin Palace in Los Angeles

Ravi DeRossi, the stealth player in the East Village cocktail scene boom, is now casting his gaze west.

DeRossi is looking to open a new gin-oriented bar in the City of Angels. It's name will be Gin Palace, after the one-time term for the lavish liquor emporia that once dotted Victorian London. According to the Village Voice, he's already started construction in L.A., and hopes to open another Gin Palace in New York—though he suspects he cannot secure another liquor license in the East Village. DeRossi is already the owner or part-owner of Death & Co., Mayahuel, Desnuda and Cienfuegos. The latter only opened a few months ago, and still has to see the unveiling of its downstairs rum cocktail bar, which will be called El Cobre. (The upstairs is a rum punch bar.)

DeRossi told the Voice he plans to offer "hundreds" of different kinds of tea sandwiches at Gin Palace, served on three-tiered silver platters. (Dainty!)

That will make two new bars in the work in L.A. by Death & Co. partners. It was reported earlier this year that DeRossi's partner David Kaplan is planning to open a bar with former Death & Co. bartender Alex Day at the helm.