Review: Bernard DeVoto's "The Hour"

Bernard DeVoto's slim 1951 volume "The Hour," recently reissued by Tin House Books, is a curious case in the annuls of drink literature. This "Cocktail Manifesto" is obviously the work of a crank behind whose rigid, irrational, hard-and-fast rules about drinking few would fall in line. Yet, the book is beloved by cocktails drinkers and historians.

DeVoto was an accomplished man. He won a Pulitzer Prize and a National Book Award. He had a column in Harper's Magazine for 20 years. He edited the papers of Mark Twain, was a novelist, composer, professor and many other things in his crowded 58 years. And yet, today, he's best remembered for his smallest book, in which he tries to impose an all-encompassing, moral philosophy of life on the Martini and the Cocktail Hour.

It's difficult to ascertain the tone of "The Hour." If it's satire, it's too subtle to be carried off. If it's written in all seriousness, it's too doctrinaire by half. What can one do with a man with thinks there are only two cocktails in the world (the Martini; and a slug of whiskey); who thinks "a slug of whiskey" is actually a cocktail; who called Manhattans "an offense against piety"; who abhors rum in all forms; who think fruit juices of no kind belong in the cocktail world; who really just hates almost everything that one might throw one down's throat, and all the people who don't abide by his narrow dicta; who sees blasphemy and treason all around him? One can only call him a kook, a nut, or worse—a bore. He's the kind of man it would be amusing to drink with once, because he is so utterly absurd and would make for fine entertainment; but with whom it would be torture to drink with twice. (Imagine him judging your drink choice carefully, eyeing your character for flaws.)

And yet. And yet.

What I Will Be Drinking This Summer

Some people have a summer drink. A certain bottle of Rose they like, or a beloved hot-weather cocktail. My life's not that simple. I know of too many excellent options to narrow it down to such a fine point. Which can be a good thing—variety and spice of life and all that.

But I do have a kind of handle on things and here's a list of what I fully expect to be the regular rotation from now until Labor Day, some of it old, some new.

CLASSICS

Southside. This is, to me, simply the most delightful, piquant and flavorful of the summertime cocktails. It takes a bit of time, muddling those limes and mint leaves. My version is particularly involved, as it require lime and lemon. But it's worth the effort.

Pimm's Cup. For me, it's not summer without Pimm's Cups. I opt for ginger ale over lemonade.

Rose: Rose, of course, Rose. It's a cliche, but where would we be without pink wine when the sun beats down and we're feeling sluggish. My favored label of this summer: 2009 Channing Daughters Rosato di Refosco, made in Long Island with a Friulian grape variety. But I'm sure I'll drink others.

Lambrusco. I finally found one I like and respect. The Lini 910 Lambrusco Bianco, a white version of the Italian quencher.

NEWBIES

Becherovka and Tonic: Pair tonic with this cinnamon-y Czech liqueur and you have one tasty concoction. You won't be able to stop drinking it. The Czechs call it a Concrete. It's much lighter than that name connotes.

Gin and Tonic: New because I'm making them this summer with Beefeater Summer, a new expression of the London dry gin made with hibiscus, elderflower and black current. I usually am suspect of new spins on classics. It usually marks a step down. Not this time. Light and lively.

Cocchi Americano: Old in Italy, new to the U.S. as of this year. It's Lillet with bite, with extra personality. It's addictive. Drink it straight on the rocks.

IN THEORY


Hum Liqeuer and Ginger Ale: In theory, because the stuff is not available in New York yet, only Illinois. Delicious. Anyone out there taking a flight from Chicago to New York with some extra room in their luggage?

Hum Dinger

The liqueur market may finally have it Next Big Thing.

It's called Hum, it was invented by a Chicago bartender and it's a little hard to explain. Which is good. Trouble finding the words means it's something new and different. And novelty is harder and harder to come by in the increasingly crowded liqueur market.

The creators behind the stuff, which is getting nothing but great word-of-mouth around the liquor circuit, are Adam Seger of Chicago and Joe McCanta of London. They worked for two years on the recipe for Hum, which has an organic rum base infused with hibiscus, organic ginger, green cardomom and kaffir lime. All trendy ingredients, but they come together beautifully in the dark purple potion. Hibiscus provides the color, the cardomom dominates the nose and all battle for the spicy flavor profile, though none (happily) win. Potent and strongly flavored, it's as close to an amaro as I've encountered in an American-made product.

Indeed, the makers modeled it after an Italian amaro, and were equally inspired by the botanicals of the French Caribbean.

It's suggested that you use Hum as a substitute in Negronis, Manhattans, Margaritas and most everything else. But I found it worked best mixed with ginger ale, a drink the creators are (unfortunately) calling Summer Hummin', which sounds the follow-up hit the Starland Vocal Group never had. (Actually, if there's anything I'd change about Hum, it's the name.) I would have experimented with more drinks, but my sample ran out, uh, pretty quickly. Sorry. It's just really good.

OK, now it's time to be cruel. You can't get Hum. They're rolling it out slowly. Right now, it's only in Illinois, California and Nevada. New York won't see it until late 2011. Believe me, I'm not happier about it than you are. But hope is not dead. I have a sister in Chicago...

"Mad Men," Season 4, On Its Way

Soon it will again be time for me to pick apart the drinking habits of the characters in "Mad Men." But until the premiere, on July 25, we have the 2010 poster art to chew over. Pretty stark. Obviously, it's expressive of Don Draper's new status, having shed both Sterling Cooper and his wife and family at the end of last season (which left him around Christmastime 1963). A new office, not very furnished. A view of Manhattan. A phone. A cigarette. A penetrating look outside at the rapidly changing world.

But where's the booze?

The Becherovka Summer

I began writing for Wine Enthusiast with the June issue. The publication has decided to up its spirits and cocktails coverage, a move I heartily applaud.

My opening item is about Becherovka, the spiced, bitter Czech liqueur that's been around forever, but is only know getting a big push from its mothership, the mighty Pernod Ricard. When it arrived in the mail, I was a bit skeptical. Another obscure European liqueur aimed at the already crowded cocktail market, I thought. But I liked it almost immediately. And, beyond gin, I have never encountered anything that naturally marries so well with tonic water. Bottles empty very slowly around here. This one was gone within a month. 

Czech Liqueur Makes a Return to U.S. Market

Like Chartreuse, the complex herbal recipe behind the ancient Czech liqueur Becherovka is known to only two living souls. Unlike Chartreuse, the 203-year-old Becherovka's fame has never stretched far beyond the borders of its home country. That should change this July, when the liquor conglomerate Pernod Ricard, which bought Becherovka in 2001, begins a re-launch which they hope will improve the liqueur's fortunes in the U.S. 

Becherovka was created in 1807 by pharmacist Josef Becher, who originally sold it in his native Carlsbad solely for medicinal purposes. In the Czech Republic, it is typically taken cold and neat—the better to enjoy its light anise/cinnamon bite—or with a dose of tonic water, a delightful drink know as "Beton" (translation: Concrete). But don't be surprised if you find some new Becherovka cocktails at your local watering hole by summer's end. 

—Robert Simonson 

San Francisco's Rickhouse Unveils Summer Cocktail List

Rickhouse, the San Francisco's cocktail joint, has launched their Seasonal Summer Cocktail list for 2010. It will be available to the thirsty on July 1. It will be running it for the duration of the summer as as a supplement to its regular menu. Here it is:

Ginger’s Trois $8

It’s as light and effervescent as the twinkle of a clouds silver lining. Snappy and sparkling, this bubbly cocktail provides every minty answer you desire, and all without the trouble of having to ask a single question.

Plymouth Gin, Sparkling Wine, Fresh Lime, Fresh Mint, Fresh Ginger and Bitters

Cherry Blossom Cobbler $8

From the depths of the Orient, comes this sultry and seductive tigress that is heart-bent on sending a shock through your fingers and a chill up your spine. We insist you proceed with caution, lest you lose yourself within its snowy abyss.

Yamazaki 12 year, Organic Cherry Blossom Jam, Fresh Lemon Juice and Seasonal Fruit

Sutter Street Swizzle $10

Brazen and uninhibited, this beverage makes no apologies for its chilly disposition. For alas, even within the great depths of the Amazon will you find nothing quite as alluring and enticing as the subtle, yet untamed flavors of this exotic spiced beverage.

Cachaca, Falernum, Pineapple Gomme, Fresh Ginger, Fresh Lime Juice and Bitters

The Big Dig $8

A delectable and enterprising adventure that is attractively saturated in the sweet taste of lost inhibitions. Seasonal berries and sarsparilla sweetness unite to form an appealing combination that is one part carbonated fizz and one part summer bliss.

Beefeater Gin, Fresh Lemon Juice, Organic Raspberries, Artisanal Root Beer and a Dash of Absinthe

High-Plains Drifter $8

Earthy and mean, this glass of bad attitude is known for providing courage to the brave, and a kick in the pants to the timid. It’s just the curly wolf to have in your corner when you’re going through the mill and there’s trouble in the air.

Rye Whiskey, Sweet Vermouth, Amaro Nonino and Celery Bitters

Berry O’Brien $8

A drink that is as attractive to the ladies, as it is suitable for a diplomat. Do not let its innocent flavor fool you, for this drink is precisely the right combination of Whiskey served tall with just a dash of Irish charm.

Jameson Irish Whiskey, Fresh Blackberries, Fresh Lemon Juice, Ginger Beer and Bitters

Breuckelen Distilling Company to Start Selling Gin Aug. 1

The Breuckelen Distilling Company in Sunset Park—one of a handful of new Brooklyn distilleries that are aiming to flood Kings County with gin and such by the end of the year—will begin selling product on Aug. 1, owner Brad Estabrooke tells us. Also due to open Aug. 1 is the plant's tasting room, seen above.

Estabrooke began distilling on June 4, soon after he got his liquor permits. He's still working on the botanical recipe. For more on his story, read the fine article Edible Brooklyn has out this week on borough distillers.